All posts tagged: january

Venice in the fog

I thought that Venice in winter would be foggier. Or rather, I’d hoped it would. When I visited the city a handful of winters ago, the fog that rose from the Lagoon in the mornings seemed as habitual as the late night high tide in Piazza San Marco. I remember watching Venetians move unflinchingly through the mist and the damp to buy their fish, or to trudge towards work, stopping in a bar for a coffee on the way. Venice, it seemed to me, was a city of water and marble and fog. So when I came here in November, I waited for the foggy mornings, except they never came – or at least never caught them. We had Acqua Alta (only the once – both a blessing and curse in a way), we had belting sunshine, mild damp, the odd storm, and of course bitter cold. Yet no proper fog. Then a couple of weeks ago, I woke up to a bedroom lit by only the finest veil of dawn. Behind the thin curtains, Read More


“Caffe con panna” “Per voi?” The bartender looks bemused. For me? Obviously, who else would willingly order espresso topped with whipped cream at 9pm on a Sunday? I nod. He still looks bemused. Now a huddle of elderly Venetians are laughing. My montagna di panna is causing an unexpected stir. I finish it quickly and step out into the damp, heading towards St Mark’s Square. It’s odd: no tourists and few people, bar a large group of elderly, fur-clad women leaving the Teatro la Fenice. San Marco’s is eerie. The chairs are stacked outside Caffe Florian and a bitter wind from the lagoon disturbs the puddles in the square. I miss the orchestras, competing for customers to sit down and drink overpriced coffee and summer’s long, humid evenings. It begins to rain. I’m told that there should be acqua alta tonight: a regular occurrence in Venice during the winter, hence the raised walkways circling Saint Mark’s. I follow the signs towards ferrovia. Venice must be one of the safest cities in the world, yet the Read More