We go to sleep to the conspiring whispers of crickets and wake up to the rattling song of the Sardinian Warblers nested in the olive trees. Kefalonia. It’s greener than I imagined, and mottled with soft hills. We drive to the nearest cove and eat omelettes with a sea view. I try Greek coffee – it’s served in a long-handled pot and is as black and thick as tar.
The first swim! It’s marvellous. We sunbathe until the hot sand leaves us stranded on our loungers, then we go in search of a supermarket. The small harbour town of Argostoli finally finds us, and I find a bakery serving warm sfogliata – a flaky cheese pie. We finally find our supermarket and Aaron makes pizza and Greek salad in our tiny kitchen. While we eat on the balcony, Stavros – the man we’re renting the apartment from – tells us to hold out our hands. He throws three figs up to us. Green and fleshy. The season’s first.